SUBA

Lisbon has a long and mostly disappointing tradition of restaurants with tremendous views and forgettable food. The city is built on hills; anyone can sell a panorama. SUBA is notable because it is one of the few places where the kitchen holds up its end.

The room sits above Chiado with the rooftops falling away toward the river, and the cooking is contemporary Portuguese with a light hand — seasonal fish, well-sourced meat, vegetables treated as more than garnish. Dishes are pretty without being fussy, and the flavours are direct enough that you are not left decoding anything. The tasting menu is the fuller experience, but the à la carte works perfectly well if you want two courses and a bottle rather than an evening-long commitment.

Cocktails are a genuine strength, which makes it a good place to arrive early. Take a drink outside while the light goes orange over the Tagus, then move to the table. Wine service is knowledgeable and the list has enough small Portuguese producers to be interesting without being wilfully obscure.

Honest notes: you are paying a view premium, and on a grey day that premium is harder to justify. Tables by the window book out first and the difference between a window seat and an inside table here is significant, so reserve early and ask specifically. The room can also get loud when it is full. But for a dinner that has to impress someone without requiring a starred budget, SUBA is one of the easiest recommendations in Chiado.